Super Sleek Streek
The Super Sleek Streek is a straightforward rubber stick model from ROG, featuring a wingspan of 15 inches.
The North Pacific Sleek Streek originated in 1952, and this particular version has been modified, dating from 1971.
Quote: "Optimizing flight performance of a simple dimestore ready-to-fly plane is challenging fun. Super Sleek Streek."
Performance Enhancements
Numerous improvements have been made to the readily available Sleek Streek by North Pacific Products, resulting in a fast-climbing, high-performance model. Over ten years of experience working with junior-high-age modelers has led to the construction and flying of hundreds of Sleek Streeks. With careful craftsmanship, these models can easily achieve flying times of over one minute, both indoors and outdoors. Some have even reached five minutes or more out of sight, while the best indoor times have clocked in at around two minutes and fifteen seconds!
Construction Guidelines
Wing Preparation:
Begin by sanding the wings from the center towards the tips with gentle pressure. The root of the wing requires strength, while the tips should be lighter for better flight performance. However, ensure the tips are not paper-thin to avoid splitting or weakness. A slight airfoil can be sanded in or the natural curve at the top of each wing can be emphasized.
Wing Tips:
Cut off the wing tips precisely as indicated in the plan. Sanding the dihedral joints, where the wing angles change, is a challenging task; patience is key. Sand a slight bevel on each wing section while maintaining the airfoil shape. Using a sanding block and fixture blocks simplifies this process, ensuring that the angle and curve are preserved as you sand the ends.
Joining Wings:
After achieving the proper bevel on each joint, apply a line of cement about the thickness of a fat pencil along the edges to be joined. Fit the joint together and rub in any excess cement. Then separate the parts and allow them to dry to fill the wood's pores. Perform this step again, this time holding the parts together until they are dry. It’s crucial to maintain the airfoil shape during drying; laying it flat can ruin performance. Wipe away any excess cement to avoid warping or additional weight.
Fuselage Modifications:
Remove the staple from the fuselage and trim down the underside to reduce weight, unless the balsa wood is particularly soft. Note the angle at the back where the stabilizer will attach. Bend a pin for the rear motor hook and secure it with binding and glue, just ahead of the stabilizer position.
Propeller Assembly:
Remove the old prop shaft with pliers and discard it. The new rubber motor will not fit with the original hook. Cut out a section from the white plastic front-end piece as indicated in the plan for rubber clearance, then cement this front piece to the fuselage and secure it with thread, applying glue to the thread for added strength.
New Prop Shaft:
Create a new prop shaft using 1/32 or smaller music wire. Round-nosed pliers are ideal, but needle-nosed will suffice. Practice with softer wire first to refine your technique. Assemble the front-end components, inserting a glass bead between the front end and prop. Bend the end of the shaft at a right angle only when confident that the prop is correctly positioned, ensuring the spiral ramp faces forward for free-wheeling when the rubber motor is unwound.
Tail Assembly:
Taper the stabilizer and rudder slightly from the fuselage to the tips, and sand them smooth. Cement these components onto the fuselage as depicted in the drawings. Finally, attach the rubber motor, positioning it between the prop hook and rear motor hook.
